Table of Contents

Introduction 8
Map of Korea 10
Korea in Statistics 11
KOrea''s Best 8 12
Itineraries 26
History of Korea 32


Part I Seoul 43

* Seoul''s Royal Palaces 50 * Samcheong-dong 64 * Bukchon 68

* Insa-dong 71 * Jeong-dong 76 * City Hall Area 79

* Myeong-dong 82 * Mt. Namsan 88 * Namdaemun Area 90 * Seongbuk-dong 94

* Buam-dong 99 * Bukhansan National Park 102 * Dongdaemun Market 104

* Daehangno 109 * Sinchon 111 * Hongik University Area 114

* Seodaemun Independence Park 119 * Itaewon 121

* More Yongsan Sites 126 * River Cruises 131

* Yeouido 132 * Yanghwajin 136 * Riverside Parks 140

* Seoul Forest 143 * Apgujeong-dong & Cheongdam-dong 145

* COEX Mall (Samseong-dong) 150

* Performing Arts in Gangnam 153 * Lotte World (Jamsil) 154

* Getting Around Seoul 156 * Accommodation List 160


Incheon & Gyeonggi-do 167

* Incheon 171 * Ganghwa Island 186 * The DMZ 192 * Hyeri Art Valley 199

* Suwon Hwaseong 202 * Yongin 206 * Namhansanseong Fortress 210

* Icheon 212 * Silleuksa Temple & Mok-A Museum 214 * Yangsu-ri 216

* Joseon Royal Tombs 220


Gangwon-do 223

* Chuncheon 227 * Sokcho 233 * Seoraksan National Park 239

* Naksan Provincial Park 246 * Odaesan National Park 249

* Gangneung 255 * Jeongdongjin 264 * Unification Park 265

* Donghae 266 * Samcheok 270 * Shingle-roofed Homes of Sin-ri 273 * Taebaek
275

* Jeongseon Rail Bike 280 * Gwinemi Village 281 * Donggang River 282

* Pyeongchang 285 * Wonju 288 * Cheorwon 291 * Hwacheon 295


Chungcheongbuk-do 301

* Cheongju 305 * Nogeun-ri Incident Site 309 * Sewang Brewery 310

* Songnisan National Park 311 * Chungju 316

* Woraksan National Park 324 * Suanbo 328 * Danyang 330


Daejeon & Chungcheongnam-do 339

* Daejeon 343 * Gyeryongsan National Park 353 * Geumsan 357

* Gongju 359 * Magoksa Temple 366 * Buyeo 369 * Gwanchoksa Temple 378

* Nabawi Catholic Church 378 * Boryeong & Daecheon Beach 379

* Taean National Park 382 * Seosan 386

* Rock-carved Buddhist Triad of Yonghyeon-ri 388 * Gaesimsa Temple 388

* Ganworam Hermitage 389 * Hongseong 390 * Cheonan 393


Jeollabuk-do 399

* Jeonju 403 * Geumsansa Temple & Moaksan Provincial Park 408

* Mireuksa Temple Site 410 * Daedunsan Provincial Park 411 * Gunsan 412

* Byeonsan Bando 418 * Gochang 422

* Naejangsan National Park 427 * Maisan Provincial Park 430

* Deogyusan National Park 432 * Namwon 434


Gwangju & Jeollanam-do 439

* Gwangju 443 * Damyang 454 * Unjusa & Ssangbongsa Temple 458

* Gangjin 461 * Wolchulsan National Park 469 * Mokpo 473

* Haenam & Jindo 479 * Dadohae Maritime National Park 484

* Boseong 491 * Beolgyo--Remains of a Tortured Past 495

* Suncheon 496 * Yeosu 503


Daegu & Gyeongsangbuk-do 509

* Daegu 513 * Inheung Village 524 * Palgongsan Provincial Park 525 * Gyeongju 531

* Pohang 539 * Cheongdo 543 * Haeinsa Temple 546 * Andong 551 * Yecheon 557

* Mungyeong 558 * Buseoksa Temple 561 * Uljin 564

* Juwangsan National Park 568 * Ulleungdo 572


Busan, Ulsan & Gyeongsangnam-do 579

* Busan 583 * Ulsan 598 * Jinhae 604 * Tongyeong 606 * Geoje-do 612

* Jinju 615 * Jirisan National Park 618 * Chilseon Gyegok Valley 625

* Hadong 626 * Upo Wetlands 631


Jeju-do 635

* Jeju City 639 * Northeastern Jeju 641 * Jeju''s South Coast 649

* Itami Jun''s Wind, Water & Stone 653

* Mt. Hallasan National Park 654 * Jeju Olle Trails 658


Part II Essential Info 663

* Info Resources 664 * Immigration & Customs 665

* Basic Korean Culture 667 * Local Info 668 * Books on Korea 677


Transportation 679

* Getting To/From Korea 679 * Getting Around Korea 681


Accommodations 685


Korean Food 689


Shopping 703

* Things to Buy 704 * Shops & Market 705


Basic Korean 708

* Useful Expressions 710 * Language Programs 716


Performing Arts 717


Museums & Galleries 721

* History Museums 721 * Art Museums & Galleries 723


Festivals 726

* Seoul 726 * Outside Seoul 728


Activities 730

* Spas & Saunas 730 * Karaoke 731 * Internet Cafes 732

* Zen Practice 733 * Korean Traditional Medicine 734

* Cooking 736 * Volunteering 736


Index 738

Subway Maps 746

* Seoul 746 * Busan 748 * Daegu 749 * Daejeon 750 * Gwangju 751


History & Culture

* Empress Myeongseong 53 * Cutting the Spirit of the Kingdom 58

* A Cup of Coffee for the Emperor 61

* King Gojong and the Rise and Fall of the Daehan Empire 62

* Hanok 70 * March 1 Independence Movement 74

* Dangerous for Your Relationship? 78 * Dokkaebi? Dokkaebi Market? 93

* Gisaeng: Speaking Flowers 97 * Dongdaemun Gate 105

* Missionaries and Korean Christianity 113 * The Korean Flag 120

* US Army Garrison--Yongsan 129 * Tragedy of the Hangang Bridge 135

* Korean Christianity 138

* Chinese-Koreans: Hwagyo 174 * Incheon Landing 184

* King Jeongjo, Jeong Yak-yong & Silhak 203

* Surrender at Namhansanseong Fortress 211

* The Beauty of Joseon Ceramics 213

* Winter Sonata 228 * The Train to Chuncheon 231

* ''Yulgok'' Yi I & Sin Saimdang 259 * The Grateful Pheasant 289

* Jeongipum Pine Tree 314 * Ureuk, the Gayageum and General Sin Rip 318

* Ondal the Fool & Princess Pyeonggang 336 * Battle of Daejeon 349

* ''Brother and Sister Pagodas'' 356 * Tale of the She-Bear 361

* A New Capital? 363 * The Ballad of Seodong 374

* The Kingdom of Baekje 376

* Dapseong Nori & Gochang Moyang Fortress Festival 424

* Song of Chunhyang 436 * Gwangju Democratization Movement 446

* Goryeo Celadon 462 * Jeong Yak-yong & Green Tea 464

* Hendrick Hamel''s Korean Adventure 466 * Hongeo 486

* Korean Buddhism 498 * Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea 506

* History of Silla 536 * Palman Daejanggyeong 550

* Korean Confucianism 556 * Jagalchi Ajimae 587

* Jinhae Gunhangje 605 * Yi Sun-sin & the Imjin War 611

* Nongae 617 * ''If You Want a Good Cup of Tea, Come to Hadong'' 630

* Snakes, Virgins and Caves 644 * Haenyeo: Korea''s Mermaids 648

* Valentine''s Day, White Day, Black Day, Pepero Day 669

* Dog Meat and Boyangsik 702

* King Sejong the Great & the Hangeul Alphabet 709

* Korea''s "Bang" Culture 732